December 05, 2016

OCHAZUKE - A BREAKFAST of Steaming Tea-Soaked Rice In TOKYO

The restaurant Dashi-chazuke En serves “Dashi-chazuke” topped with various ingredients and condiments such as fish, seaweed, pickles vegetables, chicken and other variations.

It’s  one of  Japan’s  most comforting of  comfort  foods... a bowl of rice with a hot pot of tea poured on top. Ochazuke,  literally “steeped in tea”,  is typically served at the end of meal or a night out, but it can also make for a quick and light  Japanese breakfast.

The dish can be traced back to the  Heian Period -794-1185-, when it took the form of hot water poured over cold rice. Tea replaced hot water during the Edo Period -1603-1868-, and the dish evolved again in the 1950s when Nagatanien started selling “instant” ochazuke packets containing powdered tea and kombu -kelp-.

My favorite version is made by  Dashi-chazuke En. Its dashi is made from several types of fish — soda-gatsuo -frigate tuna-, saba -Pacific mackerel-, katsuo -bonito, or skipjack tuna- and iriko -dried sardines- — with konbu, salt and chicken stock rounding out the broth. 

The morning set, served from 8-10 a.m., is around ¥500...  Dashi-chazuke En’s branch  in  Shinjuku Station  is easy to find: Exit the station’s west exit, pass the kōban (police box) and you’ll see the chain on your right...

Yukari Sakamoto

December 04, 2016


“Cured” is about preserving food.
CreditPatricia Wall/The New York Times

CURED - a periodical about preserving food - is definitely a niche publication.

An impressive roster of writers, including Betty Fussell, Jessica B. Harris, William Woys Weaver and Fuchsia Dunlop, covers a wealth of topics...

Preserving is as important a development for humankind as cooking, a means of “hedging our bets against hunger.” 

The magazine is published by Zero Point Zero...
Cured, $20 at some food shops, bookstores nationwide and from

Florence Fabricant

December 03, 2016

36 Hours in MALTA

Città Vittoriosa is an old fortified city on the Grand Harbour in  Malta

Susan Wright for The New York Times

Malta  contains multitudes. Despite being  the smallest member of the European Union,  the Mediterranean archipelago below Sicily bears traces of numerous peoples and conquerors...

The Maltese language is close to Arabic -though English is the second official tongue -. And residents drive on the left like the British, who governed the islands for much of the 19th and 20th centuries.

The cuisine is infused with Italian flavors and ingredients — to say nothing of rabbit... the national dish — while the architecture ranges from mysterious ancient temples to masterful Baroque- era cathedrals to new postmodern experiments. 

Malta, it’s best to simply plunge in. The walled cities of Valletta and Mdina are your entry points...

Seth Sherwood

December 02, 2016

PARIS - Restaurant GUY SAVOY World's Best par LA LISTE

Le Restaurant Guy Savoy sacré meilleure table du monde par La Liste

Le Restaurant de Guy Savoy  à la Monnaie de Paris est le grand vainqueur de la deuxième édition  de La Liste...


December 01, 2016

It's Not Scotch, but TASMANIAN WHISKY Is Flying off the Shelves


The World’s Best Single Malt Whisky
Sullivans Cove French Oak cask HH525 was voted the World’s Best Single Malt Whisky at the 2014 World Whisky Awards

When Patrick Maguire first showed his Tasmanian whisky  in Paris over a decade ago, he struggled to convince European connoisseurs to taste it.

“The attitude when we turned up was ‘that’s very nice, but it’s not Scotch’."

Now the world is coming to Maguire after his Sullivans Cove French Oak Cask   was named the world’s best single malt in  2014... the first time a distillery outside Scotland or Japan won the award...

Jason Scott

November 30, 2016


Damaged grapes  in the Chablis vineyard region, near Auxerre, in September 

As one of Frances main  wine-producing regions, Burgundy  relies heavily on its grape harvest.

It was the worst frost since 1981, some parts of the region saw up to 100 per cent of their grapes destroyed... 
 and left growers struggling to produce enough grapes for the 2016 vintage...

Rachel Hosie

November 24, 2016

NOMA Chef’s Next Place to Pop Up - MEXICO

René Redzepi, left, and  Rosio Sanchez,  right, at a market in Mérida, Mexico, will open a Noma pop-up in Tulum, inspired by the broader scope of Mexican cuisine. 
CreditVincent Long

Just about a decade ago Mr. Redzepi  arrived hungry in Mérida Mexico - and stopped on the street for  tacos al pastor hot, fresh corn tortillas piled with thinly sliced pork that had been browned on a vertical spit -.
The meal was quick, simple, but skillfully executed, and it made an outsize  impression  on the chef...

“The next day, I started delving into it,” Mr. Redzepi... said in an interview Thursday in New York. “Tortillas led me to masa. Masa led me to nixtamalization. I realized, there were thousands of years of history in every bite.”

Next April... his entire Copenhagen-based staff...   will join him to run a Noma pop-up in Tulum... His creative partner is Rosio Sanchez...

Tejal Rao

November 20, 2016

CHAMPAGNE - It’s About Time Someone Guided Us Through Champagne

"But First, Champagne" by David White

A winery owner once asked me to name my  “desert island wine” the one I would choose if I could have only one for the rest of my life. He didn’t expect me to immediately say  “Champagne!”

Yet we don’t think of it as an everyday drink, a partner to a meal — and that’s unfortunate.

Champagne is a remarkable food wine, excellent with much more than oysters and caviar... -Strawberries, too — at least at Wimbledon each summer, presumably with a sweeter style of champers.-  

It offers as much complexity in styles and terroirs as Burgundy or Bordeaux...

Dave McIntyre

November 12, 2016

COD and CLEMENTINE - Recipe - Nadiya Hussain

 Nadiya Hussain’s Taste of Home: cod and clementine curry on rice
Photograph: Jill Mead for the Guardian

od and clementine is one of the things my grandmother cooked for my mum when she was a child.

Never one for waste,  she’d keep the peel whenever she had a clementine,  and this dish puts it to work... 

November 11, 2016

The Ancient Technique of FOOD SMOKING... Turned Into a TREND

Marius demonstrating the technique of smoking your own meat

Marius demonstrating the technique of smoking your own meat
photo via Kulinarisk Akademi Anderhusa - interesting foodblog -

The  ancient  technique of food smoking  is  evolving constantly...

Smoking food techniques are  one of the biggest food trends of 2016 -with rosy forecasts for 2017 as well- to such an extent that they have also embraced the variegated scenario of sweet and savoury snacks...

Monica Rossi

November 09, 2016

NEW YORK - 36 Hours in MANHATTAN - Below 59th Street

The West Village has charming, narrow streets, filled with restaurants and shops.
 CreditTony Cenicola/The New York Times

Asking what’s new in  Manhattan  is like asking what’s old in Rome...

The center of the world still  radiates  east and west from Broadway at Columbus Circle to the Battery.

Confusing, overwhelming, unsettling — those words often describe visitors’ first hours in Manhattan...

Seth Kugel