April 20, 2018

CLIMATE CHANGE Is Messing With Your Dinner

Map of Brazil showing suitable areas for growing coffee shrinking by 2050
Source: World Coffee Research

The world’s dinner tables are seeing the impact of climate change.

As cold regions become warmer, and warm places hotter still, farming and fishing are shifting...

There are winners and losers.

There are rich-world  problems -less cod, more lobster- and  poor -drought and pestilence-. 

And whether through dearth or deluge, supply shocks can shake up prices...

April 14, 2018

ASPARAGUS - Perfect Food Pairings

Perfect Food Pairings: Asparagus

Nothing says  SPRING  has arrived quite like asparagus!

Asparagus  is versatile as it is delicious, and can be cooked  in a number of ways or even eaten raw.

Here are our best asparagus food pairings to enjoy the tender stems at their finest...

April 11, 2018


Clockwise from top left: Supermoon pistachio-rose croissant; Supermoon mango croissant; Vive la Tarte blood orange croissant; Dominique Ansel pear-chamomile Cronut; Vive la Tarte orange-blossom-za’atar croissant; Sugarbloom white-miso kouign-amann; Chanson pistachio éclair; Supermoon strawberry-lychee croissant; Chanson lemon-poppyseed kouign-amann; Dominique Ansel brown-sugar kouign-amann; Chanson pistachio croissant; Bake Code charcoal-matcha croissant. 
CreditPhotograph by Patricia Heal. Styled by Beverley Hyde

THE CROISSANTS OF Baker Doea delivery-only pastry service in San Francisco... appear like a new species startled in the wild.

Blasphemy or natural evolution?

THE CROISSANT itself was born of crossed borders. The butter-laden layered dough has roots in medieval Arab practice, and the... shape comes from the Viennese kipferl...

French butter... is so desirable across the globe, it’s starting to disappear from grocery shelves in France... if the trend continues... the croissant as we know it...  may be no more.

And in its place? These overgrown crescents... They’re absurd until you try them... 

The croissant is dead... long live the croissant!


April 06, 2018

Mastering the Art of BEEF STEW

Stews with wine must be cooked slowly, because the alcohol, acidity and fruitiness of wine need some taming. 
 Photo by Jessica Emily Marx for The New York Times.

There is no one perfect version, but  the combination of  beef and red wine is so elemental that it’s worthy of close examination...  

The quest for a perfect beef stew -of course - is a lifelong one ...

So far, I have mastered two styles, the basic American and the European classic. The big difference between our beef stew, and French boeuf bourguignon, Provençal daube and Tuscan peposo, is  the loud presence of  red wine...

 By JULIA MOSKIN on  Publish Date April 3, 2018.   
Publish Date

April 03, 2018


Jefferson Rueda's Ode to Pork

Running  the most sought-after restaurant  in  São PAULO  right now, chef  Rueda  wants to be more connected to his city offering good and more affordable food.

Brazilian chef Jefferson Rueda decided to make an ode to pork in his latest restaurant, A Casa do Porco Bar, located in Downtown Sao Paulo...

Opened in 2015, the restaurant became an instant hit in town... 

“As a chef, my challenge is to feed more people better. I want to be a Brazilian chef for the people”...

Rafael Tonon

April 01, 2018

ALENTEJO - Portugal - There Is No Such Thing as a Short LUNCH in this Region

hotel & monsaraz view

There's  a glorious idyll to Alentejo... a feeling not merely that time has slowed down, but that it might just have stopped...  Houses look the way they have for centuries, whitewashed with flourishes of yellow. Church spires are the highest points on the skylines... 

Sightseeing around here, after all, is more a chance to seek out the Alentejo's   gastronomic specialties  than it is to discover its classic tourist attractions.

 There's so much to eat and enjoy. That's what's special...

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March 28, 2018

PARIS - The NEW CAFé du pâtissier Yann COUVREUR

Bientôt ouvert... le nouveau lieu de vie du chef pâtissier Yann Couvreur est l'adresse à connaître où petit déjeuner, déjeuner et goûter🍰 à deux pas de  l'Opéra...

YC Café aux Galeries Lafayette Gourmet, 35 boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris – Ouvert du lundi au dimanche de 8h30 à 21h30 – Ouverture prévue le 3 avril 2018. 

Maud Charmoy

March 27, 2018

SALADISH - Not Strictly Salad, but Close Enough

Coarse salt spiked with sugar and lime zest is great on radishes, crudités, corn on the cob and more. Credit Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

No matter how beguiling and colorful my  salad dreams  may be...  I routinely ditch them for plain greens tossed with lemon juice and olive oil. Adding a grated garlic clove to the dressing...

Happily, this never happens to Ilene Rosen, whose cookbook, Saladish” -Artisan, 2018 - came out this month.

There’s nothing she’s uncomfortable putting in a salad, as long as the combination makes sense — though, she adds...

Case in point: Her salad of tofu skins, edamame, Chinese preserved cabbage and raw mustard greens. It sounds bizarre, tastes wonderful: silky, tangy, crunchy and very fresh.

But what really inspired me was her take on dips  for crudités...

Melissa Clark
via amazon.com

March 23, 2018

These Secret INGREDIENTS May Be Why Your Restaurant BILL Is So HIGH

The fanciest of SALT crusts, at Milos. Source: Estiatorio Milos

High-end versions of  pantry staples such as sugar and vinegar have become highly coveted ingredients among forward-thinking chefs in New York and Chicago...  They’re also raising the cost of your meals.

BUTTER from Bordier -  France -
Capezzana  first-press  OLIVE oil from Tuscany 
Greek  FLEUR de SEL from  Kythira 
Japanese  CANE SUGAR
Lindera Farms HONEY Vinegar

At the recently opened La Mercerie cafe in New York, chef Marie-Aude Rose sources her butter  from Bordier - 
 a cult French producer who kneads his butter- a process that costs four times more than those for other premium varieties.

In fact, she dedicates an entire section of her menu to the  “Specialty Butter  from Jean-Yves Bordier.”

Rose... is one of the few restaurateurs in the country to carry this elite product...

Gabriella Gershenson
Bordier butter

March 16, 2018

WASHINGTON D.C. - The Most Polarizing Restaurant Is About to Open

Chef Masaaki Uchino and owner Alessandro Borgognone. 
Photographer: Deb Lindsey for Bloomberg Businessweek

The most famous address in Washington is 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. But starting...  late  April the Trump International Hotel  just down the street will be the most polarizing—at least  for foodies.

Sushi Nakazawa has been one of the hardest tables to get in New York. Reservations open at 12:01 a.m...  they’re gone by 12:02.

The menu will be similar to New York’s, including salmon smoked over hay, tuna three ways, and uni topped with white truffles.

“When people ask, ‘Where’s the restaurant?’ I say, ‘It’s two blocks from the White House.’ That’s the coolest part.”...

Larissa Zimberoff