October 12, 2017

‘America: The Cookbook’ Is the Must-Have Kitchen Bible for Woke Foodies



At 768 pages, America: The Cookbook is a bona fide event and another major play by Phaidon Press Ltd.
Illustration: Zoran Pungerčar







It’s a welcome addition. Langholtz  and her team have taken a democratic approach, inspired as much by spiral-bound church cookbooks as by recent lavishly produced how-tos published by neo-regionalist star chefs... 


 The gastronomic litany is echoed in her introduction to America: The Cookbook, in which she urges Americans to consider the good eatin’ they may be missing out on by simple virtue of geography...

In format, America  is pleasingly uncomplicated: It’s divided into thematic sections -starters, main courses, desserts, breakfast, etc.-, and each recipe bears a little state-shaped marker denoting its place of origin.

The recipes are blessedly unwordy and to the point...






David Kamp


Gabrielle Langholtz devotes pages to not just regional classics but also the food of refugees and immigrants.









October 02, 2017

HENNESSY's Limited-Edition Master Blender's Selection No. 2 Is Finally Here












Consistency is the hallmark of  exceptional  Cognac. But when you’ve been making it for as long as the house of  Hennessy...  you get to experiment every now and then.

No. 1’s much-awaited sequel is finally here... the Master Blender’s Selection No. 2, which is noticeably spicier —with bright -and bold- hints of clove, nutmeg, and licorice...


As with the first edition, Master Blender’s Selection  No. 2 will only be available in the United States  in extremely limited quantities—and not all U.S. markets will receive an allocation.






Karla Alindahao









September 28, 2017

PARIS - A Floating BOULANGERIE Will Open on La SEINE


Une boulangerie flottante va ouvrir sur la Seine







Paris  est une ville pleine de  surprises !

Après l'appel à projets innovants de "Réinventer la Seine", le comité a annoncé l'ouverture d'une boulangerie-pâtisserie flottante d'ici 2019.

Découvrez les détails de cette initiative hors du commun...





Mathilde Bourge







September 25, 2017

The Allure of BLACK-COLORED Food



Food in inky tones can’t help but capture the imagination — no wonder, then, that a number of specialty farmers and food and cheese makers have bred or created attention-seizing comestibles. From far left: thousand-year-old eggs, charcoal-blended cheddar, black tomatoes, Bone Char Pearl cheese, black Silkie chicken and black corn. 
CreditPhotograph by Flora Hanitijo. Styled by Suzy Kim.








Why is it so hard to resist  the taste of  darkness?


WE KNOW ONLY a few grim details of the Hell Banquet, which took place in the first century A.D....

The host... 
 the glowering, paranoid Roman emperor Domitian, never happier than when executing opponents in the senate.

The setting... 
a room black from floor to ceiling, lit by low-burning lamps, with each guest’s name engraved on a ­tombstone-like stela.

The food... 
 of the kind normally offered to the dead, and entirely black.


Was there a lesson, beyond the power of rule by dread? That to truly enjoy a meal, we must approach it as our last? That earthly pleasures are heightened when we remember that everything will one day fade to black?...







Ligaya Mishan










September 21, 2017

Laguiole - French CHEF ASKS to Be STRIPPED of THREE MICHELIN STARS


Sébastien Bras, left, and his father Michel at Le Capucin, the pair’s restaurant in Toulouse, in 2014. Sébastien now runs the acclaimed restaurant Le Suquet, in Laguiole. Photograph: Pascal Pavani/AFP/Getty Images








One of France’s most celebrated chefs -  Sebastian Bras - whose restaurant has been honoured with three stars in the Michelin guide for almost 20 years, has pleaded to be stripped of the prestigious ranking because of the huge pressure of being judged on every dish he serves...






Angelique Chrisafis








September 14, 2017

RIESLING with SUSHI? Unexpectedly Excellent WINE and FOOD COMBINATIONS


Riesling stars: the grapes taste like they were born to complement Japanese foods. Photograph: Lukas Coch/AAP







Everyone knows the classic pairings, now check out some of  the marvellous new  cross-cultural   matches


Marsc’s graceful, floral, off-dry white makes a perfect match for delicately scented Vietnamese rice rolls.

The great traditional wine styles of Germany’s Mosel Valley...  go so well with  sushi,  it’s almost as if they were born to do the job.

The liquorice, pepper and herby flavours found in a fragrant, spicy  syrah...  fits Thai beef salads like a glove...






David Williams










September 02, 2017

Spanish Farmer Goes Out On a Limb for COW LEGS Cured à la IBERIAN HAM


García Cobaleda and some of his curing cow legs. Photograph: Sam Jones for the Guardian







Inspired by  the revered  jamón ibérico, Alfonso García Cobaleda is trying to do the same thing with  beef

In the chilled chambers of an industrial estate on the edge of a small Extremaduran town and the rolling pastures at the foot of the Sierra de Gata...

a lawyer-turned-cattle-farmer is engaged on a quest for gastronomic alchemy...




 in Santibáñez el Alto









August 28, 2017

The World’s Longest Flight Is Coming - Direct SYDNEY-NEW YORK or LONDON



Boeing’s 777X.
Source: Boeing







Qantas wants to fly  from  Sydney to New York or London nonstop—with a little help from Boeing and Airbus.


Two new models planned by Airbus SE and Boeing Co... will be able to make the nonstop trip to London20 hours and 20 minutes— from Sydney. This new model would also jet across the Pacific Ocean to New York in about 18 hours...





Justin Bachman











August 22, 2017

PICKLE Your Own VEGGIES with a Traditional Japanese NUKADOKO







The  nukazuke  method of pickling vegetables in a fermented rice bran bed called a nukadoko was developed in the 17th century.  

These days, nukazuke pickles are back in the nutritional spotlight...

Nukazuke pickles are usually eaten after being in the nukadoko for one or two days ...   The most famous  type of preserved nukazuke is takuan, which is made with dried daikon...


Recipe included





Makiko Itoh










August 17, 2017

NEW YORK - Casual FRENCH CAFE Opens on Upper East Side







Philippe Delgrange, who owns Le Bilboquet  on the Upper East Side,  is putting the finishing touches on a new cafe   a few doors east of his bistro.


Café Bilboquet offers breakfast pastries, fancier sweets like éclairs, and ready-made  panini and salads, along with coffee, tea, beer and, soon, wine in an elegantly gilded setting with plush garnet banquettes.

A more complete menu will arrive in September...





Café Bilboquet, 26 East 60th Street (between Park and Madison Avenues), 646-869-8660, no website.






Florence Fabricant


Résultat de recherche d'images pour "café bilboquet new york"










August 12, 2017

The BASQUE Mother SAUCES EXPLAINED



The Basque Mother Sauces Explained








Pil-pil... vizcaina...  green sauce   and  black sauce... from classic recipes to modern interpretations of these sauces with the help of top Basque chefs.


Unlike the classic French mother sauces, those of the Basque Countrypil-pil, ink sauce, green sauce and vizcainaare constantly evolving. “These sauces are alive,”...  

“Each town, restaurant or person can provide their own characteristic and adapted version by changing an ingredient or perhaps modifying the process...



THE SAUCE MASTERS

Pedro Subijana, Hilario Arbelaitz, Genaro Pildain – these are just some of the individuals chefs like Aduriz, Alija, Arzak and Victor Aguinzoniz of Asador Etxebarri point to as the masters of the Basque mother sauces. But credit must be given first to “the creators of the sauces and grandmothers and mothers who cooked at home, they knew the secrets and shared their knowledge,” says Alija. And to those curious sailors and a certain telegraph operator.







Tom Jenkins